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In weaving, lengthwise yarns are called warp; crosswise yarns are called weft, or filling. Most woven fabrics are made with their outer edges finished in a manner that avoids raveling; these are called selvages. They run lengthwise, parallel to the warp yarns. The three basic weaves are plain, twill, and satin.
The plain weave is variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weave It is the simplest of all weaves having a repeat size of 2 (i) It has the maximum number of binding points (ii) The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down. (iii) The thread density is limited (iv) Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited (v) It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple combination of threads, excepting that of “gauze” or “cross weaving” Principle of construction - interlacement of any two continuous threads either warp or weft in an exactly contrary manner to each other, with every thread in each series passing alternately under and over consecutive threads of other series interlaces uniformly throughout the fabric By this plan of interlacement, every thread in each series interlaces with every thread in the other series to the maximum extent, thereby producing a comparatively firm and strong texture of cloth PLAIN WEAVES.
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